If you give up New York, I’ll give you Tennessee

My time in the sun was certainly over, as in the space of a two-hour plane ride I went from the balmy mid 20s, to days when the temperature didn’t get above 0. Tennessee has long been considered the musical heartland of America which made it a must see for my trip, however the first thing I did in Nashville wasn’t at all music related.

Tuesday night of Veterans Day (Remebereance Day) was spent watching the Nashville Predators who are the Ice Hockey team for Tennessee. Even though this was the first hockey game I watched, I’m pretty sure it would be considered a good game, with the Preds making the most of an early lead, winning 3-2. Having experienced my first NHL game, it meant that I had now seen four out of the five major leagues in America, with the only exception being MLB, but that’ll be done next trip. Having taken in Nashville’s sporting side, it was time to delve into their history, with my first stop being The State Capitol. Whilst there’s not a lot to see and do at the State Capitol in Nashville, I happened to be there at the time the new senators were being sworn in, so if you happened to watch the Nashville local news on November 12th, keep an eye out for a skinny dude in black jeans and a grey knit. The State Musem was much more interesting, and it was my first encounter with American history relating to American Indians, as up until this point the focus has been on the American Revolution and Civil Rights. The museum also highlighted how the state was established with two major cities in Nashville and Memphis, and also boasted a War Museum which was pretty moving especially after such a significant holiday. Inspired by my family’s love for the man in black, I visited the Johnny Cash museum.

Johnny Cash is one of the most successful recording artists to date, and the small museum showcases all of his work from I Walk The Line right up until Hurt (which is probably the most depressing songs you could ever listen to). The museum includes Cash’s pantium records, outfits and props from shows, as well as handwritten letters and lyrics. A recent addition to the museum was The legends of Sun Records exhibit, as works from Elvis Presley, Roy Orbison and other country legends are on display. Next, I ventured west to eat at Arnold’s, a Nashville institution for decades and got to experience some classic Southern cuisine. Another Nashville tradition are the honky-tonk bars located on Broadway, and it just so happen that it was the 54th birthday of one of more famous honky-tonk bars; Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge. In celebration, a massive all day/ night street party had country music fans bootscootin’ and hollorin’ all through Downtown. Whilst I’m not the biggest country music fan, I made the most of a free concert as some very (apparently) famous country stars took the stage. Nashville is certainly the country music capital of the US, however it was time to check out another scene, as I headed west to Memphis.

When it’s a high of 1 and low of negative -7, it’s literally freezing.

As you can see above, Memphis was even colder than it was in Nashville. My music education continued here as my visit to The Rock ‘n Soul Museum picked up where the Johnny Cash Museum left off. Taking you on a journey through time, the museum explores the cultural origins of both country music, a predominately white genre, and blues which was predominately black. The museum tour hits its peak when racial barriers were broken down to combine the two popular genres which is said to have formed RocknRoll music when a boy from Mississippi named Elvis first performed Heartbreak Hotel. The museum also highlighted how Rock N Roll became the soundtrack for a post-war generation, and how music was influential in significant moments such as the civil rights movement. On the other side of Beale Street is the Gibson Guitar factory, which allows you to tour the factory and see how the manufacturer the iconic guitars. Despite being the least musically talented person in Memphis, it was really interesting to see how goings-on, especially as 90% of the manufacturing process is still completed by manual labor. Whilst also in Memphis, I enjoyed one of the best burgers of my trip, which came about in an odd way as it was simply a man and his best mate working the grill in a parking lot, talking college football. Naturally, I joined in with the conversation and the burger was so good I ordered a second.

Memphis was a city that felt the full force of the global financial crisis, and it is evident that only know are they on the way back to their peak. A part of this is the National Civil Rights Museum, located at Lorraine’s Hotel where Martin Luther King Jnr was assingated. The museum was one of the more interesting points of interest I’ve visited thus far, as not only does it acknowledge the struggle throughout the 20th century, but also the origins of African-Americans from the turbulent slavery period and Civil War. A particularly eerie part of the tour is when you view the room Dr King was staying in whilst he was assassinated, which remains relatviely untouched with his possessions inside. Also, a wreath on the balcony is placed in the exact position where he was standing when he was assassinated. After a very moving experience, it was time for something a little more light-hearted, as I visited Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken a few blocks down, and it’s no surprise that it is famous as it was the three-piece fried chicken meal I have ever eaten. Like ever. As I continue my journey across the mid west, I left Tennessee about 4 kilos heavier than when I first arrived, but also with a greater appreciation for music and those that made it what it is today.